Berger



J. BERGER, JR. PRESSER FOOT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 30, l 9l6.

Patented N 0v. 11, 1919.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

J. BERGER, JR. PHESSER F001 FOR SEWING MACHINES.

AEPLICATION FILED DEC- 30, 1916..

Patented Nov. 11, 1919.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

J. BERGER, JR. PRESSER FOOT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED DEC- 301, 1916.

PatentedNOv. 11, 1919.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

J. BERGER, JR.

PRESSER FOOT FOR SEWING MACHINES. APPLICATION FILED DEC- 30,1916.

1,821,502. X Patented Nov. 11, 1919.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

'J. BERGER, JR. PRES SEE FOOT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 30, I916.

Patented Nov. 11, 1919.

5 SHEETSSHEET 5.

JOSEPH BERGER, 53., OF UTICA, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR T0 UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

PRESSER-FOOT FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

To all whom it may concern:

'Be it known that I, Josnrn BERGER, J12, a citizen of the United States, residing at Utica, in the county of Oneida, State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Presser-Feet for Sewing-lvlachines, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a presser foot for sewing machines, and more particularly to apresse'r foot which is adapted to guide and overlap the edges of fabric sections whereby the same may be united to form a flat seam.

An obJect of the invention is to provide a Presser foot which is so constructed as to receive the up-turned edges of fabric sections whereby they may be trimmed and prepared for overlapping and uniting, after which said presser footoperates to return the upturned trimmed portions of the fabric sections to the plane of the fabric sections in overlapped relation to each other.

A further object of the invention is to provide a presser foot of the above character with means for positively supporting one of the up-turned edges and means for positively crowding the other up-turned edge underneath the first-named up-turned edge portion, after which said edge portions are brought into flat overlapped relation.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a presser foot of the above character which is formed of two sections arranged side by side, and one of which is yieldingly mounted relative to the other so that the sections of fabric having the cross seam therein may be ioined to another fabric section.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in partbe hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings, which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a part of a sewing machine having the improved presser foot applied thereto;

Fig. 2 is a top plan view of the same; Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the work support. the throat plate. and thefeed dog, and also showing the needles;

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed December 30, 1916.

Patented Nov. it, 1919.

Serial No. 139,821.

Fig. I is a plan view of the improved presser foot;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the same;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the auxiliary yielding section of the presser foot;

Fig. 7 is a detail in perspective showing the front end of the main section of the presser foot;

Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view through the presser footv on the line 8-8 of Fig. 5;

Fig. 9 is atransverse sectional view on the line 99 of Fig. 5;

Fig. 10 is a longitudinal sectional view on the line 1010 of Fig. 5;

Fig. 11 is a sectional view on the line 1111 of Fig. 6;

Fig. 12 is a perspective view showing the front portion of the foot. the needles, and two fabric sections passing beneath the foot;

Fig. 13 is an enlarged view of a portion of the foot, partly in perspective andpartly in section. and showing the fabricv sections and the manner of overlapping the same;

Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic view showing the relation of the fabric sections to each other and to the stitching threads.

My improved presser foot is especially adapted for use in the joining by stitching of overlapped fabric sections. The edge portions of the fabric sections to bejoined are turned out of the plane of the fabric sections, and these up-turned portions are placed side by side and directed into a slot in the presser foot. A trimming mechanism operating atthe upper face of the presser foot trims the edge portions of the fabric sections. The presser foot and throat'plate are provided with means which positively supportone of the up-turned edges and with means for positively crowding the other upturned edge portion underneath the first upturned edge portion. after which the firstnamed edge portion is returned to the plane of its fabric section. and thus the fabric sec: tions are overlapped so that they can be presented to the stitching mechanism and joined by stitching which not only covers the trimmed edges but which penetrates the overlapped fabric sections.

Referring more in detail to the drawings:

The. improved presser foot consists of a supporting shank l which is adapted to be thread hook 19,

attached to the presser bar 2. The foot portion of the presser f t is formed into two sections, the main section 3 being rigid with the shank 1, while the auxiliary section 4 is yieldingly connected thereto. Said shank portion 1 is provided with spaced lugs 5 and (5 between which the shank 7 of the auxiliary section slides. The main section 3 is provided with a needle opening 8 into which extends a stitch tongue 9. The auxiliary and main sections of the foot are spaced at their forw'ard ends to form a slot 10 which extends from the front end of the presser foot longitudinally thereof and in substantially a line to the needle opening to a point adjacent the needle opening. This slot is adapted to receive the up-turned edges of the fabric sections whiclfare to be trimmed and joined by stitching.

In Figs. 12 and 13 of the drawings, I have shown the presser foot as used in connecnection with the stitching of a collaret strip to a garment. The collaret strip is indiated at S and the body of the garment to which it is attached is indicated at G. The edge portion 5 of the body garment is turned up as indicated in the drawings and led into the slot 10. The collaret strip has its edges 8 also turned up and led into the slot, and these up-turned edges are trimmed by a trimming mechanism which includes a fixed trimming blade 11, preferably carried by the main section of the presser foot, and a movable trimming blade 12 mounted on an arm 13 which may be vibrated in any wellknown way. The presser foot holds the material to be stitched on the work support, indicated at 14 in the drawings.

The presser foot is provided with a raised throat plate 15 which is formed with feed slots adapted to receive the feeding devices, indicated at 16. The throat plate is also provided with needle openings to receive the needles'of the stitching mechanism, which are indicated at 17 and 18. Cooperating with the needles 17 and 18 is a and a fixed thread guide 20 through which a cross thread is guided, and this thread hook which is oscillated by suitable mechanism engages the cross-thread and forms a loop therein for the entrance of the needle 17 which is farthest from the fixed thread guide. Cooperating with the needles 17 and 18 below the work support is preferably a single looper so that the needle threads will be joined by the looper thread beneath the material.

In Fig. 1% of the drawings, I have indicated more or less diagr'ammatically the collaret strip at S, the body of the garment at (l, the thread of the needle 17 at 17, the thread of the needle 18 at 18. the cross thread at 20. and the looper thread at 7. It will be noted that the collaret strip slightly overlaps the body of the gannent,

, upper face of the main the needle thread 18 penetrates the collaret strip only, and the needle thread l7 penetrates the body of the garment only. The

cross thread 20 and the looper thread connecting the needle threads will join the collaret strip to the. body of the garment, and these cross threads, together with the needle threads, cover the trimmed edges of the collaret strip and the trimmed edge of the body of the garment.

In order-to facilitate the guiding of the fabric sections to the presser foot, the throat plate is provided with a vertically extending fin 21 which extends into the slot 10. This fin, however, is tapered toward its rear end so as to permit the trimming blades to be moved freely over the. same, and finally so as to vanish and permit the fabric sections to be overlapped.

The auxiliary section 4 of the presser foot is provided with a projecting guide-22 which extends wholly into the slot 10, and this projecting guide serves to positively turn down the up-turned portion G of the body of the fabric, crowding the same underneath the edge portions 8 of the collaret strip. The edge portions 8 of the collaret strip are positively held raised by this guide until after they have passed the same. The main section of the presser foot directly in front of the needle opening 8 is cut-away to form an arched section 23. This arched section serves to engage the edge portions .9 of the collaret strip and positively return the same to the plane of the eollaret strip, as clearly shown in Fig. 13 of the drawing. It will thus be noted that the presser foot is provided with means for positively crowding one of the up-turned edge portions underneath the other, after which the upper dge portion is positively turned down onto the lower edge portion, thus overlapping the edge portions. These devices which return the trimmed edge portions to the plane of the fabric, sections in overlapped relation are disposed between the trimming mechanism and the needle opening in the presser foot which determines the stitching point so that, after the edges are trimmed. they are positively brought back into overlapped relation before they cross the opening in the presser foot and, therefore, before they are brought to the stitching mechanism. p

The main section of the presser foot is formed with an adjustable section 24. This adjustable section 2-} is provided with a shank 25 which slides in a groove in the section of the foot. and a screw '26. passing through a slot in said shank 25, holds this section 2-1 in an adjusted position. The section 24- is adjusted laterally. and for the purpose of closing up the slot 10 when moving the section 2% nearer to or farther from the vertical in so as to leave just sufficient space for the free passage of the upturned portions of the fabricsections. It is obvious that my improved presser foot may operate upon two fabric sections, each of a single thickness, and this section 2i of the main portion of the foot may be shifted so as to leave just enough clearance space for the guidance of the section that is being Lip-turned and trimmed.

The auxiliary section of the presser foot is formed of two parts. The front portion a has a work engaging surface terminating at the rear end of the slot 10. The rear section of the part l overlaps the rear part 4" of the presser foot, and screws 27 passing through slots 28 are adapted to hold the part a in an adjusted position on the part t". This permits the part 4 to be shifted laterally and moved toward or from the vertical fin 2,1, The purpose of shifting this part of the foot is the same as that above described in connection with the part 24s It will thus be seen that the width of the part may be adjusted to accord with the thickness of the fabric sections being stitched. The auxiliary section l of the presser foot is formed with a shank, as above noted, which slides between lugs 5 and (S, and this shank is held in place by a suitable cover plate 29 and a screw 30 passing through a slot 31 in the shank limits the downward movement of the auxiliary section of the presser foot. A spring 31 normally forces said shank downwardly. The purpose of this yielding section of the foot is to facilitate the stitching of fabric sections which have cross seams formed therein.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction and thearrangement of parts may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as'new is l. A presserfoot for sewing machines including in combination, a foot portion having a needle opening and avslot in said foot portion extending longitudinally of the foot portion from the front end of the presser foot to a point adjacent the needle opening and entirely through said foot in a vertical direction, whereby upturned edge portions of fabric sections may be guided into said slot and extend above the foot portion where they may be trimmed, said presser foot hav ing means in front of the needle opening for positively returning the upturned trimmed portionsof fabric sections to the plane of fabric sections and in overlapped relation.

2. A presser foot for sewing machines including in combination, a foot portion having a needle opening and a slot in said foot, portion extending lon 'tudinally of the presser foot and from t e front end of the presser foot to a point adjacent the needle opening, said slot being adapted to receive the up-turned edge portions of fabric sections means carried by the presser foot in advance of the needle opening for positively returning said fabric sections to the plane of the fabrics and in overlapped relation to each other, and means whereby the width of the slot may be varied.

3. A presser foot for sewing machines including in combination, a foot portion having a needle opening and a slot in said foot portion extending longitudinally of the presser foot and from the front of the presser foot to a point adjacent the needle opening, said slot extending vertically entirely through said presser foot, whereby upturned edge portions of fabric sections may be guided by said-slot and extend upwardly through said slot where they may be trimmed, a guide carried by the presser foot and extending laterally into said slot, said guide being constructed and disposed so as to crowd one of the trimmed edge portions of the fabric sections underneath the other whereby the upturned portions of the fabric sections are returned flat and unfolded to the plane of the fabric sections in oven lapped relation.

4. A presser foot for sewing machines including in combination, a foot portion having a needle opening and a slot in said foot portion extending longitudinally of the presser foot and from the front of the presser foot to a point adjacent the needle opening, said slot being adapted to receive up-turned edge portions of fabric sections, a guide carried by the presser foot and extending laterally into said slot, said guide being constructed and disposed so as to crowd one of the trimmed edge portions of the fabric sections underneath the other, said presser foot at the rear end of said slot having an arched section adapted to engage the upper trimmed edge portion and positively return the same to the plane of its fabric section and in overlapped relation to the other fabric section.

5. A presser foot for sewing machines ihcluding in combination, a foot portion comprising a main section and an auxiliary section, said main section having a needle opening therein, means for yieldingly supporting the auxiliary section on the main section, said main section and said auxiliary section being spaced in front of the opening to form a slot extending from the front end of the presser foot to a point adjacent the needle opening, said slot being adapted to receive the up-turned edge portions of fabric sections whereby they may vbe trimmed, said auxiliary sectgibng.;.of the presser foot having a guide projecting laterally into saidslot for crowding one of the trimmed edge portions of the fabric secmain root portion having an arched section in the slot at the rear end thereof for positively returning the upper edge portion onto the other fabric section and in overlapped relation thereto.

6'. A presser foot for sewing machines including in combination, a foot portion comprising a main section and an auxiliary section, said main section having a needle opening therein, means for yieldingly supporting the auxiliary section on the main sec tion, said main section and said auxiliary section being spaced in front of the opening to form a slot extending from the front end of the presser foot to a point adjacent the needle opening, said slot being adapted to receive the up-turned edge portions of fabric sections whereby they may be trimmed, said auxiliary section of the presser foot having a guide n-ejecting iaterally inio said slot for crowding one of the trimmed edge portions of the fabric sections underneath the other edge portion, said main foot portion having an arched section in the slot at the 2 rear end thereof for positively returning the upper edge portion onto the other fabric section and in overlapped relation thereto, said auxiliary section being formed in two parts, one or" which is adjustable on the 30 JOSEPH BERGER, J11.

Witnesses:

A. J. BAECIILE, ARTHUR L. lVrLcox. 

